This season marked Moisés Nieto’s return to the official Fashion Week Madrid calendar. After ten years spent exploring more intimate formats, the designer from Jaén decided it was time to return to the runway. “When I left, I never said I wouldn’t come back, but I needed to take control of my presentations and do things my own way,” he said. “What brought me back was also the adrenaline of putting on a big show. I’m not comfortable doing the same thing all the time. It’s not that I get bored, but I need to keep evolving.”
Although it felt like a natural next step, the brand’s needs also drove the decision. Nieto had previously focused mainly on Spain, but his attention is now turning abroad. “Tourists shop a lot at our store, especially people from Northern Europe. I think I need that kind of visibility,” he said. He is also returning to international wholesale after eight years. “You also need strong imagery and a platform behind the collection, because that makes a big difference when it comes to selling it,” he added.
His new collection was a declaration of intent: an attempt to bring Andalusia to the world while stripping away the clichés usually attached to it. “I think we’ve boxed Andalusia into folklore, flamenco fashion, and the imagery associated with tourism and culture. To me, Andalusia is much quieter, darker, and more introverted than the way we sell it,” he said. His references include Federico García Lorca and painter Julio Romero de Torres. Nieto described his woman as someone “understated who avoids ruffles and polka dots. That became simple, practical dresses tied around the body, made to move and work in.”
She’s also hardworking, with relaxed, fluid silhouettes. For the first time, Nieto used knitwear, including silk and ponte, alongside patchwork, equestrian-inspired fuseau pants, sashes, and tunic dresses that “recall a more multicultural side of Andalusia.” It was a highly pragmatic take on spring, and the color palette also marked an evolution for the brand: the pinks and vanilla tones of recent seasons gave way to black, burgundy, and cream, with flashes of electric blue and red. Hats by Zahati, shoes by Adeba, and bags by Paris/64 completes a collection designed to be worn again and again.