When you think of Partow, you likely conjure an image of refined suiting, inspired by the core tenets of American sportswear. The pieces are often given a modern update, through a boxy cropped silhouette with subtle details like darting at the shirt’s hem, or a statement barrel-leg jean for a sense of contemporary sophistication.
This season, however, designer Nellie Partow looked less to the well-dressed streets of New York City and more towards the red carpets, and her own custom celebrity moments—such as a recent look for Merritt Wever at the Venice Film Festival—for daytime inspiration. “The kind of evening that we’re bringing into what we’re doing on the red carpet is also translated into the collection, but in a much more day-to-evening essence, where it’s created in separates as opposed to full evening gowns,” she said. It’s her hope that these more formal-inspired pieces, tempered by their mix-and-match abilities, don’t feel as contrived as your classic cocktail dressing.
Matching sets, in navy and white were both fluid and tailored. Worn as a monochrome look, the top and hand-draped skirt paired seamlessly as a dress at first glance—but mixing and matching the two offered a simple twist for a more casual effect. Likewise, last season’s exploration in draping continued in two off-the-shoulder dresses with concealed boning on the inside. It’s structured, but not constrictive: “It’s really meant for it to have a level of ease on the body.”
For a bit of outerwear, Partow tapped into two classics: suede and lightweight crepe. The former appeared in a collarless belted jacket and cropped short sleeve style, while the latter took the shape of an elongated blazer that, when paired with a wide-legged trouser, gave a picture-perfect louche feel. “I think when women look like themselves and they don’t look like the garments are wearing them, that’s where the beauty comes out,” she said.