It’s August in Athens, and the mood is blue. The center is emptying for the holiday, leaving behind a crowd of tourists; it’s also approximately one million degrees, which means that my mom is declining to leave our house during the day, which means that I, by proxy as I am visiting her, am keeping vampire hours. We hatch a plan—a quick weekend trip for the fast-approaching celebration on the 15th, preferably somewhere by the water. Suggestions are floated and swiftly vetoed (Symi—too far, Spetses—too posh), and then inspiration strikes. A friend of hers from London has recommended an Airbnb she loves in Aegina—why don’t we start there?
Aegina is a small island in the Argo-Saronic Gulf; from the port of Piraeus, it can be as quick a ferry ride as 40 minutes and cost as little as $11, making it a popular weekend destination for Athenians. In comparison to some of its more-trafficked Cycladic neighbors, it’s a far quieter option. Take your pick between exploring ancient ruins and swimming in clear waters; tiny tavernas dot the coastline, and in the evening, the colorful main town is alive with diners, the occasional bouzouki player, and an army of hopeful stray cats laser-focused on their leftovers.
If you’re headed to the capital this summer and looking for a low-key spot for a weekend trip, here’s where we stayed and what I packed for a few days in Aegina.
Photo by Elly Leavitt
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Photo by Elly Leavitt
The Airbnb
The rental that kickstarted this whole trip is called Les Rougets, a cozy townhouse on a quiet street right on the outskirts of Aegina Town. Run by a British couple, who first visited (and fell in love with) the island decades ago, it’s a sweet one-bedroom that’s just the right size for a long weekend stay. Everything is coated in island white; high ceilings are punctuated by paper lanterns, giving the whole place an airy feel. The space is decorated with pieces that reflects their love of travel: block-print textiles from India, local Greek ceramics.
You’ll be around a 10-minute walk to the busiest part of the port, well-situated for bakery runs in the morning and dinners out. Though you may find it’s worth sacrificing an evening to stay in: the undeniable highlight of this home is its outdoor space. Spanning a garden courtyard and a rooftop terrace, both completely private, you have plenty of room for an aperitivo or light dinner at home.
The Packing List
For a long weekend, the uniform is simple: mostly swimwear, with a few breezy dresses for dinner thrown in. I’m a lifelong pareo collector, so I always have at least one in my summer duffel (they also come in handy worn as a lightweight wrap in the evenings, when the wind picks up on the islands). A sturdy pair of sandals you can wear with your linen pants on the ferry ride over and to navigate rocky beaches is a must; as is a roomy tote to carry it all. Parker Thatch’s latest design, an extra-large mesh bag made in collaboration with New York-based homeware store Big Night, is a great multipurpose option. It even has a fishy charm.