Resort at Lauren Manoogian is largely about creating a topography of textures. Fabrics are crinkled and crushed; fur-like knits, some close-cropped and others shaggy, invite touch. “Fall was very clean and linear,” said Lauren Manoogian, “by contrast to that, this is more about an accumulated texture.”
In an unexpected move, Manoogian introduced bold shoulders which were integral to the clothes’ construction, not add-ons. “I think these pieces are really interesting because the shape is actually set in,” she stressed. “This isn’t a shoulder pad, it’s a knitting technique.” The effect was strong and soft at once. For the less committed, there are shrugs that let the wearer slip the look on or off with ease.
Knits are the first thing that come to mind with this brand, but there are always tailored options. The resort collection includes two pantsuits that evoke opposite effects. The first, look 10, is made of a papery, semi-transparent, crushed cotton voile in a misty yellow. The lapelless jacket has a V-neck and the generously cut pants have a drawstring waist. Everything about it speaks of lightness and ease. In contrast, the suit in look 13, is sharper and more fitted. It was developed with a master tailor in Peru, made of baby alpaca merino, and cut to fit Fireoved before it was graded down for women. The jacket has a slight barrel shape and extends to the hips. Behind the gently shaped lapel is evidence of the tailor’s craft in hand stitching. The same material—but brushed—was used for a coat that reinforced the importance of tactility in this label’s output.