With nearly 18,000 restaurants in New York Cityâand nearly half shuttering within five yearsâlongevity in the hospitality world is a feat few achieve. But for more than four decades, Keith McNally has defied the odds. The British-born restaurateur is the force behind some of Manhattanâs most iconic dining destinations: The Odeon, Minetta Tavern, Pastis, and, of course, the legendary French brasserie Balthazar, a longtime magnet for celebrities and downtown tastemakers.
Over the course of his prolific and often unpredictable careerâheâs been called âThe Restaurateur Who Invented DowntownââMcNally has racked up a trove of outrageous stories and A-list encounters. Now, heâs telling all in I Regret Almost Everything, a candid, unflinching, and often poignant memoir.
To celebrate the bookâs release, 180 of McNallyâs family and friends gathered at Balthazar on Tuesday evening. The guest list read like a whoâs who of New York culture: Christy Turlington, Alec Baldwin, Padma Lakshmi, Anna Wintour, Diane Sawyer, and Tony Shalhoub were among those in attendance.
âSeeing so many friends, family, and colleagues show up to support me makes me feel that itâs definitely possible to fool all the people all the time,â McNally quipped to Vogue, seated alongside his daughter Sophie, son-in-law, and granddaughter.
The night began with a live performance by singers Lily Kershaw and Sandy Dalziel, their voices floating above the buzz of candlelit conversation. Actor Richard E. Grant, Saltburn star, read select passages from the memoirâequal parts riotous and rawâincluding McNallyâs reflections on his 2018 suicide attempt and the lasting effects of a 2016 stroke, which left him with aphasia and a paralyzed right hand.
âI really admire his tenacity,â said Top Chef alum Padma Lakshmi, weaving her way through the packed dining room to greet McNally. The two embraced, and she settled beside him on a red leather banquette for a heartfelt catch-up.
Alec Baldwin was also full of praise for McNallyâs singular impact. âKeithâs a magician,â he told Vogue moments before sitting down to dinner with his wife, Hilaria. âHeâs got the code to the safe when it comes to defining Manhattan nightlife. Clubs come and go, but Keithâs restaurantsâthose are forever.â
The celebratory spirit was reflected in every detail: trays of Champagne (a nod to McNallyâs tradition of offering a complimentary glass to solo diners), pomegranate martinis (his personal favorite), and, naturally, Balthazarâs famed steak frites with béarnaise sauce. Dessert brought out bowls of berries with cream and rich chocolate truffles.
Christy Turlington, a Balthazar regular since its 1997 debut, reminisced about the early days. âI was Keithâs neighbor on 11th Street when this place first opened, and Iâve been coming ever since,â the supermodel said. âItâs one of the best rooms in New York. The energy is always high and goodâyou always run into people you love.â
As the night drew to a close, McNally reflected on what he hopes readers take from his memoir. âThat conventional wisdom is often not wisdom at all,â he mused. âThat itâs okay to hold opposing views at once. That itâs okay to dislike what weâre taught is sacrosanct. But most importantly? Look for things that donât confirm your narrative.â