The Black Tailors Who’ve Kept Dandyism Alive for Decades

Beyond the sewing machine, Hill’s work represents a quiet preservation of Black elegance and self-presentation in the South. His tailoring speaks to a form of dignity rooted not only in fit and cut but in care. “Tailoring is a lost art,” he reflects. “Young people don’t have the patience. It takes time to learn this.” Hill estimates that 75 to 80% of his business comes from alterations, but he still offers custom suiting, parsing through fabric swatches and style books and adjusting patterns, designs, and fit for each client. In a field with few successors, Hill holds fast to the values of tradition, discipline, and legacy. “This kind of work, it teaches you to slow down, to be patient,” he says. Though fast fashion and fleeting trends make up much of today’s fashion landscape, Hill remains committed to a slower, sharper vision.

Tony Stovall and Cliff Green: Hot Sam’s Detroit, Detroit

Photo: Andre Terrell McWilliams

In Detroit, the legacy of Black dandyism lives on through Hot Sam’s, the city’s oldest Black-owned menswear store and a cornerstone of the community for over 100 years. At the helm are Cliff Green and Tony Stovall, two old-school clothiers who have owned and operated the downtown Detroit institution for 31 years. The sartorial duo sees tailoring not just as a trade but as a calling. “We’re more than just salesmen, we’re mentors,” Green tells Vogue. He’s been sewing since 1967 and views every alteration as “a form of surgery.” A master tailor by training, Green began his craft in high school after being captivated by the sight of young Black boys hunched over sewing machines, threading their futures through fabric. “It hit me right then—I had to take that tailoring class,” he recalls. What makes a great suit? “The fabric and the inner workings,” he says. “And detail—that’s what separates a garment from being just good to truly exceptional.” For Green, tailoring is more than a technical skill; it’s a practice in precision, care, and cultural memory. “When I sew, I’m thinking about how it should move, how it should fit, how it should feel on the man. It has to mean something.” He’s dressed generations of Black men for weddings, proms, homegoings, and first jobs, all while instilling values of pride, respect, and presence. “It’s not just about the suit,” he adds. “We teach them how to stand tall, how to shake a man’s hand, and how to carry themselves.”