Glass skin. Cushion foundation. Double cleansing. The early 2010s ignited a K-beauty craze in the skincare world—and now, a decade later, we’re witnessing the second wave as it takes over the makeup industry. Sarah Chung Park, founder of Landing International, a company that helps brands launch, scale, and succeed in new markets, recently published a study on the second wave of K-beauty. “The first wave of K-beauty was primarily focused on skincare, and the second wave has expanded into color, hair, body, and fragrance,” she says. This “second wave” signifies a shift from skincare products to makeup-skincare hybrids like foundations with hyaluronic acid and concealers with brightening agents like niacinamide. These skin-first makeup products represent significant industry upgrades, providing an ideal environment for K-beauty to flourish in its new phase. “A key difference between the first and second waves is the consumer demand on TikTok for K-beauty and from consumers of all ethnicities and skin tones,” adds Park.
Historically, K-beauty brands have faced challenges when it comes to catering to diverse skin tones. On the surface, it makes sense—the brands originate from predominantly homogeneous populations and have limited availability in diverse markets. Cue globalization, which has led to an increased awareness and demand for a broader representation in the beauty industry. As demand for inclusivity grows, U.S.-based K-beauty and Korea-based brands are responding differently. Korean brands offer lessons in effectively addressing product criticism and adapting to a broader audience, demonstrating a commitment to growth and serving a diverse clientele.
The initial allure of K-beauty in the U.S. captivated Western audiences with innovative skincare, cultural appeal, and affordable luxury. Amorepacific Corporation introduced brands like Laneige and CosRx to the American mainstream. Korean-American brands like Peach and Lily, meanwhile, bridged the nuances between East and West. Since skin concerns are a great equalizer, it was an easier entry point for K-beauty, and inclusivity wasn’t a challenge. “In Korea, there is not a wide range of ethnicities and skin tones, so this concept is new to K-beauty brands. are learning how to better serve a larger audience, and we will see many examples of that in months to come,” says Park. Typically, Korean brands release just three to five foundation shades, primarily catering to their local market. Occasionally, a brand would attempt to introduce darker shades, but these efforts often fell short due to limited marketing and awareness, leading to their inevitable discontinuation.
In 2015, Cle Cosmetics launched their CCC Cream in five shades ranging from “Light” to “Deep.” Over time, they expanded to include undertones and collaborated with makeup artists who had extensive experience working with medium-deep to deep skin tones, further enhancing the darker end of their shade spectrum. Lauren Jin, the brand’s founder, admits the biggest challenge for her brand when it comes to inclusivity is budget. “Each new shade is costly, and we have to meet minimum order quantities, which affects the timing and development of new shades,” Jin says. But if she notices consistent feedback about a specific undertone or shade, she emphasizes, “It becomes a priority.” As a small business owner, Jin expands her shade ranges every two to three years. “Instead of looking to traditional Korean beauty brands for guidance, we strive to meet and exceed the expectations set by our Western competitors,” says Jin.