Here at Vogue Runway it’s become a tradition to look back at what fashion looked like 20 years before the onset of a new season. Revisiting the collections of 2005 was illuminating. I saw punk ballerinas at Comme des Garçons, deft fabric manipulations at Helmut Lang, and Grès-like drapery at Yohji Yamamoto and Lanvin (then designed by Alber Elbaz). Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa was keeping minimalism alive in New York, as Jil Sander was doing in Milan, while in contrast Alexander McQueen and Undercover’s Jun Takahashi proposed pure fantasy.
Still other designers worked an easy, lived-in, even crinkled aesthetic. Tank shapes, polo shirts, and henleys were paired with pants with a generous Katharine Hepburn-esque cut. A vacation-ready collegiate vibe animated some collections, where others were marked with ladylike eccentricity; and then, as now, boho was back.
The more time I spent with the spring 2005 season the more familiar they felt; the trends I saw at Copenhagen Fashion Week and the recent resort collections were in evidence in the shows of two decades ago: things like bubble skirts, polo shirts, and long shorts, and deconstruction. It got me thinking that Jason Farago was right about the slow-down of cultural evolution.
But it’s not only aesthetics that link spring 2005 to spring 2025; the plight of independent designers hasn’t seemed to change much, either. One indelible image from 20 years ago is of Miguel Adrover taking his bow in a T-shirt that read “Anyone Seen a Backer?” Such “unicorns” continue to be elusive even while talent thrives.
Below, designs that have stood the test of time and which just might give us clues to fashion’s next moves.
Comme des Garçons’s Dance Lesson
Comme des Garçons, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Comme des Garçons, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Comme des Garçons, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Comme des Garçons, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Alexander McQueen’s Game of Chess
Alexander McQueen, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Alexander McQueen, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Alexander McQueen, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Alexander McQueen, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Charles Anastase’s Charm School
Charles Anastase, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Charles Anastase, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Charles Anastase, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Charles Anastase, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Undercover’s Explosion of Creativity
Undercover, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Undercover, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
At Calvin Klein Collection, a Molto Minimal Vibe
Calvin Klein Collection by Francisco Costa, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Calvin Klein Collection by Francisco Costa, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Calvin Klein Collection by Francisco Costa, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Calvin Klein Collection by Francisco Costa, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Too Cool for School at Luella
Luella, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Luella, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Luella, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Luella, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Clean Cut at Phi
Phi by Andreas Melbostad, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Phi by Andreas Melbostad, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Phi by Andreas Melbostad, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Phi by Andreas Melbostad, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Simple and Sexy at Narciso Rodriguez
Narciso Rodriguez, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Narciso Rodriguez, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
At Rick Owens, Color and Sportiness
Rick Owens, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Rick Owens, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Rick Owens, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Rick Owens, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Naval Manoeuvers at Balenciaga
Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
The Time Was Ripe for Stripes at Chalayan
Chalayan, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Chalayan, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Chalayan, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Chalayan, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Miguel Adrover’s American Dream
Miguel Adrover, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Miguel Adrover, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Miguel Adrover, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Miguel Adrover, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Casual Meets Chic Chez Chloé
Chloé by Phoebe Philo, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Chloé by Phoebe Philo, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Chloé by Phoebe Philo, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Chloé by Phoebe Philo, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
A New Twist from Helmut Lang
Helmut Lang, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Helmut Lang, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Helmut Lang, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Helmut Lang, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Simple Joys at Jil Sander
Jil Sander, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Jil Sander, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Jil Sander, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Jil Sander, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Sheer Joy From Stella McCartney
Stella McCartney, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Stella McCartney, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Stella McCartney, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Stella McCartney, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Veronique Branquinho: Subtle and Sophisticated
Veronique Branquinho, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Veronique Branquinho, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Capris and Tees at AF Vandevorst
AF Vandevorst, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
AF Vandevorst, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Loose Ties at Ann Demuelmeester
Ann Demuelmeester, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Ann Demuelmeester, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Ann Demuelmeester, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Ann Demuelmeester, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Ahead of the Curve at Asfour
Asfour, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Asfour, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
The Blue Hour at Boudicca
Boudicca, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Boudicca, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Unzipped at Junya Watanabe
Junya Watanabe, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Junya Watanabe, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Junya Watanabe, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Junya Watanabe, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
At Christian Dior, Logos and Lingerie
Christian Dior by John Galliano, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Christian Dior by John Galliano, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Christian Dior by John Galliano, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Christian Dior by John Galliano, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
A Coquette Revival at Jean Paul Gaultier
Jean Paul Gaultier, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Jean Paul Gaultier, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Jean Paul Gaultier, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Jean Paul Gaultier, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Decon and Deshabille Chez John Galliano
John Galliano, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
John Galliano, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
John Galliano, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
John Galliano, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Into the Sunset at Proenza Schouler
Proenza Schouler, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Proenza Schouler, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Proenza Schouler, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Proenza Schouler, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Marc Jacobs’s Super Separates
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Lived-in Yet Ladylike at Marni
Marni, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Marni, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Marni, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Marni, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Vintage Touches at Perry Ellis
Perry Ellis by Patrick Robinson, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Perry Ellis by Patrick Robinson, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Perry Ellis by Patrick Robinson, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Perry Ellis by Patrick Robinson, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Louis Vuitton’s Vintage Glamour
Louis Vuitton by Marc Jacobs, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Louis Vuitton by Marc Jacobs, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Louis Vuitton by Marc Jacobs, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Louis Vuitton by Marc Jacobs, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
On Point at Saint Laurent
Saint Laurent by Stefano Pilati, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Saint Laurent by Stefano Pilati, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Saint Laurent by Stefano Pilati, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Saint Laurent by Stefano Pilati, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Doo-Ri’s Delicate Touch
Doo-Ri, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Doo-Ri, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
A Demure Debut from Thakoon
Thakoon, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Thakoon, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Thakoon, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Thakoon, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Grès Ladies at Yohji Yamamoto
Yohji Yamamoto, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Yohji Yamamoto, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Pretty Pleats from Sophia Kokosalaki
Sophia Kokosalaki, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Sophia Kokosalaki, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Sophia Kokosalaki, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Sophia Kokosalaki, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Old World Charm at Lanvin
Lanvin by Alber Elbaz, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Lanvin by Alber Elbaz, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Lanvin by Alber Elbaz, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Lanvin by Alber Elbaz, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
A Cut Above at Ashish
Ashish, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Ashish, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Easy Living at Fendi
Fendi by Karl Lagerfeld, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Fendi by Karl Lagerfeld, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Fendi by Karl Lagerfeld, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Fendi by Karl Lagerfeld, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Precision Prints at Jonathan Saunders
Jonathan Saunders, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Jonathan Saunders, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Jonathan Saunders, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Jonathan Saunders, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Primary Colors at Marc by Marc Jacobs
Marc by Marc Jacobs, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Marc by Marc Jacobs, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Marc by Marc Jacobs, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Marc by Marc Jacobs, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Channeling the ’70s at Miu Miu
Miu Miu, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Miu Miu, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Miu Miu, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Miu Miu, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Prada’s Happy Campers
Prada, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Prada, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Prada, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Prada, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Girls Gone Wild at Dolce & Gabbana
Dolce & Gabbana, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Dolce & Gabbana, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Dolce & Gabbana, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Dolce & Gabbana, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Gucci’s Glam Squad
Gucci by Alessandra Facchinetti, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Gucci by Alessandra Facchinetti, spring 2005 ready-to-wear
