Their exact benefit, however, largely depends on the peptide in question. “Signal peptides enhance production of collagen and elastin, while carrier peptides can help vital ingredients get to their target sites to increase collagen production,” says Dr. Castilla. Meanwhile, enzyme-inhibitor peptides can inhibit the enzymes that break down collagen, leading to lax skin and wrinkles.
One increasingly popular type of peptide is a neuropeptide, or “neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides,” says Dr. Castilla. This peptide can “block the release of neurotransmitters that relay muscle signals.” In other words, it acts similarly, albeit on a much smaller scale, as neuromodulators, relaxing the facial muscles to minimize expression lines.
What to look for in a peptide serum
Dr. Graf recommends using a formula that “combines the benefits of peptides with other skin-benefitting ingredients, like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and glycerin,” she says. These help protect the skin barrier, and leave skin feeling plump and smooth.
It’s also helpful to consider the peptide in the serum. Signal peptides and carrier peptides currently have the most evidence to back up their anti-aging benefits—with copper peptides being among the most common and best studied signal peptides, says Dr. Castilla.
Finally, consider your skin concerns. For instance, “if you are looking for plumper, smoother skin, choose a signaling peptide in a formulation that also provides hydration, such as hyaluronic acid,” she says.
Who is peptide serum for?
If you already use an antioxidant serum, a retinoid, and a sunscreen, then a peptide serum is a good addition to enhance your anti-aging routine, according to Dr. Castilla. “In general, peptides play more of an additive role, rather than an ingredient that will provide comprehensive benefits,” she says.
They can also offer a preventative effect. “The longer you use peptides, the more benefits you will see for the skin,” says Dr. Graf. “By stimulating important proteins, like collagen, skin is left firmer and brighter—and signs of aging, like fine lines and wrinkles, are slowed.”
Finally, peptide serums are also a good option for those who can’t tolerate irritating ingredients, such as retinoids, as they offer a similar ability to stimulate collagen production—although to a lesser degree. But they don’t come with the risk of irritation, making them a good option for those with sensitivities.
Meet the experts
- Carmen Castilla, MD is a board-certified dermatologist in New York at the New York Dermatology Group.
- Melanie Palm, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in San Diego, CA at Art of Skin.
- Jeanette Graf, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and professor at Mount Sinai School of Medicine.