After some seasons with a more moderate approach, Philipp Plein opted for a big and flamboyant show for spring, taking over the Ippodromo, right next to San Siro Stadium, and flashing the words “We destroy Milan” on its big screens. Destroy it he did, with a monster truck performance that included flames and sparks before the models began their parade.
Plein has had a thing for sharp tailoring for a few seasons now, and he explored it again this season through audacious women’s looks in leather, including double-breasted jackets characterized by an architectural structure on the back that recalled a biker style—very appropriate considering the show concept. This idea was also developed in a beige suede version, both on jackets and long coats. For men, he brought back some double-breasted suits in an array of new shades such as burgundy, sage, brown, and dark green, together with a more casual black and a white variation.
Glamour is a given at a Philipp Plein show; this season it was represented by archival pieces such as a white short fluffy fur jacket and a black glittery minidress with a metal insert that accentuated deep cleavage. Beads and sequins were used for intricate embroideries of flowers and chains on long gowns and the minidresses that are one of his most recognizable signatures. Last came a few denim proposals in which crystals created motifs or were used to enhance cutout effects, including one shaped like a heart.