It was Monse’s grand return to the runway for the first time since co-designers Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia departed Oscar de la Renta, and they certainly pulled out all the stops. Perched inside the very sunny glass dome atop the old Domino Sugar factory, the sweeping space provided a dramatic backdrop for swinging fringe jackets, delicate sheer organza sets, a crescendoing choir of “Like a Prayer,” and a drone buzzing overhead.
Many seasons of Monse have begun with a flower, and for spring, Kim opted for the tulip—specifically, a purple and white variation from Amsterdam. Its relaxed, wayward stem and bright petals floated across a large majority of the collection. “There’s something so beautiful about how this kind of tulip is caused by a virus,” she said, referring to the “broken” color effect. As in fashion, some things require a bit of extra engineering.
If flowers were the focus, they were represented in literal abundance from the 3D halter neck of a dress to a graphic print to the embroidery on a sweater. More abstractly, tulips were interpreted across the opening looks using the backside of a special green-and-pink textile the designers developed at Lake Como. There was still a dash of suiting with asymmetrical lapels or, more successfully, in a sheer brown skirt suit with Barbie pink underwear underneath. The kinetic fringe on a striped button-down shirt and a brown workwear jacket gave some fun movement. Monse is back in the swing of things.