Learning how to exfoliate your face can be tricky. Especially with so many options these days, everyone is thinking about what it takes to get clear and glowing skin. A recent report from NPD found that 40 percent of regular skincare users in the U.S. are slathering on more products now—and “basic care” picks, such as cleansers, exfoliators, and scrubs, have experienced the most significant jump in demand. On a practical level, this makes sense; debris, oil, and bacteria can pile up on the skin and exfoliating can help unclog congested pores. And sometimes a trip to the spa for a skin-sloughing facial is out of reach for many of us, so incorporating exfoliation into our skincare routines becomes our best bet for keeping our skin healthy.
By design, our skin naturally sheds dead cells in a 28-day cycle. Certain factors (dry, cold air; indoor heating systems; stress) can stall this process, however, so regular, mild exfoliating is crucial to increasing cellular turnover, insists New York-based medical esthetician Jordana Mattioli—especially in the winter months.
But knowing your mandelic acid from your glycolic acid or when to use an exfoliating tool can be overwhelming. So to break down the different types of exfoliation for you and to help you figure out which skincare products work best for you and your skin, here is an expert-backed, three-step plan. Read this for a safe, effective way how to exfoliate and keep skin smooth, calm, and clear all winter long—and beyond.
Types of Exfoliation
The myriad ways to effectively break down the top layer of skin can be mystifying, but not all exfoliating products are made the same. The different types of exfoliation are as follows:
Physical Exfoliation
This is the process of manually dislodging dirt and stripping away surface cells and was once the gold standard of sloughing. Shereene Idriss, M.D., New York City-based board-certified dermatologist and founder of Dr. Idriss, says this can be done with the use of abrasive substances or manual tools. Which leads us to…
Mechanical Exfoliation
Another form of physical exfoliation, mechanical leverages tech-savvy devices to buff the complexion. Raquel Medina-Cleghorn, facialist and founder of Raquel New York, lists in-clinic microdermabrasion or diamond abrasion as some of the physical treatments you can seek out. You can also look at dermaplaning, Medina-Cleghorn says, or dry brushing and other devices that you can use from the comfort of your couch (but more on that later).
Chemical Exfoliation
Exfoliators, such as alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids, have emerged as arguably some of the safest, and gentlest ways to break down the bonds between skin cells and decongest pores with experts advising patch tests to rule out any irritation before use, and nighttime applications to reduce photosensitivity during the day. You can also opt for in-office treatments for intense exfoliation, such as chemical peels. “This is where I feel acids really shine,” says Medina-Cleghorn. “Chemical peels are among my favorites.
But Idriss notes that it might not be for everyone. “Consult a dermatologist or a licensed skin care professional to determine if a chemical peel is needed and the appropriate type and strength of peel for your skin type and concern,” she says.
The Mechanics of Mechanical Exfoliation
If you have a thick layer of dull skin that’s mostly due to dryness and flakes, not acne, Mattioli suggests starting with a mechanical exfoliating tool, which is often more effective than relying on high percentages of acids to break through initial buildup. Mattioli is a fan of Dermaflash Luxe, a device that uses a vibrating blade to ever-so-lightly “scrape away the top layer of skin,” she says; PMD Personal Microderm Classic, which combines spinning microdermabrasion discs that polish your face with “suction to pull out debris from pores,” offers a next step up, Mattioli adds. Los Angeles–based esthetician Shani Darden has long been wary of cleansing tools, many of which, she finds, “can be harsh on skin.” But Darden swears by the Nion Opus Luxe, which has soft, antibacterial silicone bristles that slough away dead skin cells “without causing irritation.”
How Chemical Exfoliation Works
Medina-Cleghorn says that there are many ways to use a chemical exfoliator. The most common products tend to come in acid toners, masks, and powders. She recommends using one exfoliator per routine. Having too many will compromise the skin barrier, she says.